Thursday 3 October 2013

Singapore Southern Islands

Think of Singapore islands, what comes to your mind? Sentosa island with Resorts World putting it larger on the world map? Pulau Tekong, home to most Singaporean sons serving their National Service? Or is it Pulau Ubin, a flashback of Singapore in the early 60s before high rise buildings took over? Fact is that there are many more islands belonging to the island state of Singapore, many of which are in the south.

The infamous Sentosa is just south of mainland Singapore, now accessible by a road, monorail and the more traditional cable car. In the past my parents brought me to Sentosa by ferry, don't think that's in operation now. Ferry used to be the only alternative to the more expensive and touristy cable car option. Nowadays I just tap my Islander card at the monorail station to get in for free (technically it's prepaid). 

In the previous month I used to go Sentosa RWS hotels quite frequently to do lifeguard duty. This time I went straight to the Siloso Beach, beside the Wave House, to be a kayak guide for a bunch of SJI International students on their southern islands expedition. Thank Kayak Asia for 2 new guides, most of the kayaks and equipment were already prepared the day before. :) The students will use the amazingly trusty and rugged Gumotex Solar doubles inflatables. The guides and their outdoor teacher will use single expedition kayaks. A jet ski acts as safety boat, towing a sit-on-top kayak with 3 full jerry cans of water as logistic support. 

Doubles inflatables fully loaded with (at least) 1 bag per paddler. 
Photo from KayakAsia. 


A big storm hit us in the late morning, which was just as well because by the time we set off at noon the weather was clear, though still windy. Students were 15yrs old, though many looked like they were 17. All were 1star certified, although a few kayaks still couldn't go straight. Finally we set off around 1230pm, after loading all our personal belongings onto the kayaks. First obstacle that hit us was getting out of the bay itself. The bay was lined with floating barrels, connected by chains. Paddling through between the barrels and above the chains was harder than it sounds, as the tide was high and  most of the chains were taut, making it impossible to paddle over. The winds were still strong so many of the kayaks were simply pinned to the barrels making any manoeuvre difficult. It took a bit of skill and strength to first paddle away from the barrels, then approaching the gap between the barrels at an acute angle so that the kayak can squeeze through the gap. Well eventually everyone got through safely, albeit with some time. 

Out of the bay, our next task was to cross the busy shipping channel to St John's Island. Many fast crafts were arriving and departing between Singapore Harbour Front and Batam/ Bintan in Indonesia. While it may look daunting, with fast boats passing through every few minutes, it isn't so dangerous actually. Golden rule is to keep the fleet together, so that the boats have space to manoeuvre in front or behind the fleet. Stop in the channel if you need to, and trust that the boatmen has enough eye sight to see so many kayaks on the water. 

Map showing Sentosa, St John's and Sister's Island. 

St John's island is not far at all, but we encountered our sternest test of the day (on hindsight it was the sternest test of the whole expedition). We were getting to the Kia channel, popularly known as the Kia washing machine. Imagine a funnel of water, with water rushing down through a small gap. The 2 islands create a similar funnel effect, with water from the vast sea channelling in between the 2 islands, and we were paddling head on against the current. To make matters worse, the shore on the left was concave shaped, meaning water rushed against us from the front as well as the left, creating lots of turbulence, aka washing machine effect. Solution, keep as close to the shore without hitting the rocks, dig in and paddle hard....and do not give up until you are in the calm waters of the bay, otherwise the current will easily sweep you back to where you first started in 10secs, flushing all your efforts down the drain. Well most of the kayaks made it, 2 kayaks had to be towed by the jet ski, and 2 kayaks towed by the guides (myself included!) 

Safety and comfort of the beach welcoming us as we arrive at St John's 
http://learningwelike.wordpress.com/2010/09/02/st-johns-and-kusu-islands-in-singapore/


Breathtaking view of St John's from above. 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/38417840@N08/7279287822/

St John's Island formerly housed a quarantine station for cholera cases detected among immigrants in the late 19th century, and continued to be a quarantine station for many other diseases for many years. There was also a drug rehabilitation centre. It was only after 1975 that St John's was transformed into a tranquil gateway with swimming lagoons, beaches, picnic grounds and other recreational sites. A haven for many a flora and fauna. You don't necessary have to kayak to St Johns's, there are scheduled ferries. 

After a short rest at St Johns's, we proceeded to Sister's Island. What was supposed to be a short paddle turned out longer than it should because of current. By the time we reached Sister's island the fleet was very much scattered, with the seasick ones struggling behind, and I towed one of them along their final stretch. 

Sister's islands consists of 2 islands, big and small sister (actually known as Pulau Subar Laut and Pulau Subar Darat respectively.) Legend has it that there were 2 pretty sisters who were very close to each other, Minah and Linah. One day a pirate came and abducted Linah to be his wife. Minah desperately swam after the pirate boat but unfortunately was drowned. In grief, Linah dived into the stormy waters to die with her sister. The next day, villagers were shocked to find 2 islands at the spot where they died, and thus named them Sister's island. Well if I were the pirate, I would have abducted both sisters, lol! According to legend too, every year on their death anniversary there will always be storms at the islands. I wonder when that is.... 
For a more detailed version of the story go to: http://infopedia.nl.sg/articles/SIP_185_2005-01-20.html. 

We camped at the small sister's island, I think because there were less monkeys (supposedly there are only 3, compared to the dozens in big sister's). Being small in number doesn't mean they are less aggressive.... One of the monkeys shook a coconut down from the tree and it landed a mere 2 metres from me! Talk about territorial! 

http://www.islandcruise.com.sg/gallery-sisters-island.html

Dinner was a surprise bbq! For the guides I mean, the rest had their instant noodles, rice, can food cooked on portable bluet stoves. 

The next day was a short paddle back to Sentosa. However for the guides, the real work came after arrival in Sentosa! Washing, deflating kayaks, keeping equipment took 3hrs! Definitely the most back-breaking part of the expedition! 

If you are wondering why none of the photos was taken by me, it's because I dropped my camera into the sea! Sad. :(  

Sunset at Sister's Island. This is the only photo I have left, taken with my phone. 

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